Coleman Collection #29

PRODUCER

ROI

CULTIVAR

Taggiasca

Harvest Date

October 2022

REGION

Badalucco, Liguria

The economy of the wild, mountainous valley of Badalucco, Liguria has been centered around olives since 1600. The ROI family has been producing extra virgin olive oil there since 1900. The business reflects the family’s long-standing symbiotic relationship with the unique landscape. Today it is run by 5th generation olive miller Paolo Boeri and his father Franco. The oils they produce are highly sought after by chefs and culinary enthusiasts from around the world.

Their prized Taggiasca olives, named after the town of Taggia, grow in an impractically steep cliffside forest strategically located 18km from the sea. The olives benefit from what’s known as “sea effect” – a natural phenomenon wherein bodies of water temper the climate and lengthen the growing season.

The rugged terrain makes machine harvesting impossible, so workers atop wooden ladders use shakers to beat the olives off the trees onto woven nets. The fruit is then transported to their facility in 25kg crates, extracted within 24 hours in a modern Clemente-AlfaLaval mill, and stored in stainless steel tanks. The labor-intensive process yields an inimitable regional delicacy.

Despite annually producing a scant 0.8% of Italy’s olives, Liguria is renowned for its Taggiasca oil, which has a unique identity in the cultivar cannon. The fruit is small and lacks the grassy, bitter components delivered by other olives. Instead, it produces a sweet, delicate, ethereal tasting oil with undertones of almond and vanilla, ending in a slight back of the throat nip of pepper. This style of oil is intended to blend with and not overwhelm other dish ingredients. Try pairing it with delicate pastas, potatoes, eggs, vegetables, mushrooms, or seafood.

Liguria’s privileged position along the Mediterranean coast encourages agriculture and vineyard development. The narrow region benefits from warm southern coastal winds and cool Alpine northern mountain breezes. Despite its small size, Ligurian wine offers much to explore. White wines made from Pigato and Vermentino grapes combine fresh, crisp, and bright characteristics with lively acidity and perfectly pairs with culinary staples like trofie al pesto. The red wines are equally interesting, ranging from darker reds made from Dolcetto, referred to locally as Ormeasco, and whisper-thin ones with subtle pepper notes produced from the indigenous Rossese grape. Small yet mighty, Liguria has a wealth of great wines worth exploring.